Friday, May 22, 2009

How to sew with elastic thread. Shirring tutorial


Several people have asked me about sewing with elastic thread , or shirring. There are several patterns out on the market today which uses this technique. Shirring is fun and is quicker than running multiple rows of cased elastic to get the same effect.

Seeing is believing! Close up pictures should take away any fear of working with elastic thread.
Seriously fellow sewers, this is EASY. The elastic thread ...is...uh elastic. It does all the work. You sew and let the thread take care of the rest. :-)

Check SpellingYou'll have to hand wind your bobbin. Not too tight, not too loose. If you wind it too tight it will break. The top thread is standard sewing thread. Use a color which matches the fabric, to best hide any wiggles and wobbles. If you go out of line slightly, don't worry. Sew slowly.
My trusty old Bernina 930 is still alive and kickin! This is the stitch setting I use. I think it is actually called a elastic stitch. I find the stitch width works well between 3.5 and 4 and the length at about 3.5 - 4. Your machine may be different with those settings. Practice on a scrap to see how your settings compare with my sample pictures.

I've sewn samples using a plain straight stitch as well as a plain zig zag. Both work.....because the elastic thread does the real work.
The first row is rather unimpressive. It doesn't start looking drawn up enough until another row is added. The closer you sew the rows, the tighter it draws. Keep that in mind.

The Pink Fig patterns , such as the Cuppy Cake dress and Lily tops, say to sew approx 1/4 -1/2 inch from the first row.
Things start to look good with each additional row.
This is the same sample piece. I stretched it for you to see what the right side looks like. Remember, the top thread is regular sewing thread.
Wrong side of fabric. Stretched to show how the elastic thread looks.
In this sample I used a regular Straight stitch.
Here is the standard zigzag.
Both the straight and standard zig zag seem to pull up tighter. You may want to space the rows out a tiny bit wider if you use these. Chances are, you are sewing on one of those fancy-spancy machines which tells you exactly how to set it up.

Leave yourself about of inch of thread tail to tie off each row. I still back stitch at each end, but I may be breaking the rules by back stitching. Instructions say to tie off.
Once you have sewn all of the shirring rows, make sure you have tied off securely. Take your piece to the steam iron and blast it with some steam. The elastic goes back into shape and looks wonderful.
Step back, and take pride in your handy work!

47 comments:

  1. Thanks. I had been dying to try this but neverous. I think I might give a try this weekend. Any advice on sewing laminated fabrics.

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  2. Happy Staurday Morning Miss Glenna!
    This looks so cool! Your tutorials are so awesome, totally putting to rest any scary thoughts! Thank you SO much for sharing all of your "secrets!" I am going to take the dive and try appliqué!
    ~Michele

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  3. Hi Glenna, thanks for visiting my blog! That recipe is super easy, I hope you enjoy it. I'm grabbing your blog button to add to my good reads list.

    And thanks so much for sharing this! I have some elastic thread I have not braved using yet. Just might have to try this out and make my little one a top soon!

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  4. first time visiting. I have been anxious to try this and I am going to give it a try in the next day or two. thanks for your help.

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  5. Thanks so much for the help. I've been looking online for 'smocking' stitches, but now know it's called 'shirring'! Silly me...;o)

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  6. i'm trying to sew with elastic thread right now for a dress for my daughter & am having the worst time getting it started. it keeps getting jammed up in the bobbin case. it's wound loosely, but i don't know what else to fix. tension? re-wind it? any ideas? i'll try to see if my machine has an elastic stitch

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  7. Thanks for posting this. I am going to test it out right now. I've given myself the challenge to take some boy hand-me-downs and make them girly enough for my younger child - a daughter. I'm thinking some shirring across the chest and cap sleeves will make all the difference.

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  8. Thank you so much for this! I'm sewing up a baby dress made from a onsie that uses this tecnique. Your site is great:)

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  9. I just ran across your terrific tutorial. My problem is getting the elastic thread to come up from the bobbin to the throat plate. I am using an old (but electronic) Husquvarna, and when the bobbin is inserted, you are supposed to pull the thread back on itself before pushing it into the bobbin case. Any suggestions anyone?

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  10. I am not sure if your machine threads like my 24 year old electronic Bernia or not. I like the Guttermann elastic thread best. It seems thinner and works best in my bobbin case. (This is why I sell Guttermann brand in my store)

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  11. Thanks a lot, I'm going to try this on one of my school projects (making a skirt!) :)

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  12. Hi there Glenna, thank you very much for detailing how to do this so well, with lots of pictures. Thanks for explaining I can have a go with my old, straight stitching Singer. Think I'll have a go! Thank you for making it seem do-able, for saying it's not so hard, and for uncovering all the 'scary' (!) (cos unknown bits!!) Thank you Glenna!!!

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  13. Thanks for the tutorial. I'm not scared anymore!

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  14. I just got a new machine (Viking quilter) & found out that I need a unique bobbin case ($45) to be able to use elastic thread - that may be the issue too (for mommymae)
    You DO have the best tutorial I've seen for this =)

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  15. Can you use this technique with fabric folded together? The plan is to take a strip of fabric, fold in half and ruffle to use on a pillow. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!

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  16. to Anonymous,
    I've never tried it with the fabric folded.

    To make a folded ruffle for a pillow:

    don't use the elastic thread. Use typical thread with the stitch length set long. Pull the long threads to gather the folded fabric strip.

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  17. Hi Glenna,
    Thank goodness I found your site. I'm not sure why it didn't show up when I searched for how to use elastic thread a few months ago. All the sites I found at that time said to wind your bobbin with normal tension and after the elastic was sewn on one should pull the elastic to make the ruffles!!! Ha! I remeber many many years ago using elastic thread to make a faux-smocked dress. Worked like a charm and I didn't have to pull any elastic to make the fabric gather. So thank you once again. Do you think I could possibly wind the bobbin on the machine, but hold the elastic being wound on the bobbin to create tension? Yippee, I'm so happy.

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  18. Glad it helped Maureen! You can try using the machine to wind the bobbin, but the result may be different. You'll have to play around with it.
    Happy Sewing!

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  19. Hi.... Just wondering what the tension should be when shirring? Thanks

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  20. Hi Anonymous,
    I leave the tension as if I were sewing normally. All examples in the tutorial were with a typical sewing tension. Please note: only the bobbin is using elastic thread. The top is cotton sewing thread.

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  21. I have been using the elastic to do some shirring on my daughters shirt, it was working but now I cant seem to get the bobbin to stay wound..once I put the bobbin in it spins out..is it because i am winding it too tight? thanks so much I am getting frustrated at myself :)

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  22. That is a good question Anbanan. I would have to say it is because of the elastic being wound too tight. When I wind it, I use only enough tension to prevent the elastic from looking loopy on the bobbin. It doesn't have to look perfect on the bobbin, just not "loopy".
    Is loopy a word??? LOL

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  23. Thanks! I have been looking for how to use elastic thread, adn this is tutorial makes it sound so easy! Let's see how the fairy costume turns out now!

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  24. Got to try this! Thanks, I've never used elastic thread and have shied away from any projects like this, but you've helped me feel confident giving it a try with this tutorial!

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  25. This is wonderful. Thanks! I am making a dress with a "shirred" top. The first four rows worked with no problem. Recently, my machine is squeaking (sounds like it needs oil or something - but it's only with the elastic thread in the bobbing; it's fine when I use other thread) and the thread jams and it turns into a general mess, sticking and not moving forward. Do you have any suggestions. I have a Singer Confidence.

    Thank you!

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  26. Dear Anonymous,
    I am not an authority on machines. (Wish I was) I personally like Guttermann elastic Thread. It seems less thick than the other brands which I've used. http://www.yourfabricplace.com/elasticbobbinthreadbyguttermann.aspx

    are you winding the bobbin by hand? Not too tight and not too loose. Play with that to see the results.

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  27. This may sound strange and maybe a don't go there, but I need to put some elastic thread in a knitted glove's wrist area, I was going to handsew with elastic thread. is that doable? your website was the only one that spoke or showed working with elastic thread.
    thank you.

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  28. Hello Anonymous,
    I've never hand sewn with elastic thread, but I don't see why it couldn't be done. Play with it until you get the look you like.

    happy sewing!
    glenna

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  29. Hi Glenna,

    tanx so much for thie tutorial. I av been dying to see one. But please tell me how do i cut the cloth to get the right size after sewing the elastic? Some say double your waist and hip. Is that right?

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  30. If you are making a skirt, I would guess to double your waist & hip would be close. You may want to make a practice skirt from an inexpensive fabric first.

    The more rows and the closer together the shirring rows....the tighter it gathers. Experiment with this and have fun!

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  31. Am I doing something wrong... I have tied to shirr some dresses for my daughter but each time the elastic does not stretch! I only get the shirred look after pulling the elastic like you'd pull a gathering stitch and then it often breaks. Is the tension the problem? I've tried different things but I just don't know what I am doing wrong..:( HELP!

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  32. Kristianna,
    My guess for your problems are because you have hand wound the elastic on the bobbin too tight.

    I leave my tension at the normal setting. I experienced the same problems you are having....it was because I cheated and let the machine wind the bobbin. (it was wound too tight)

    Try rewinding it. Not to loose, but just so it doesn't look loopy. (is that a word? loopy) Mine never looks neat & pretty but I try to wind it as evenly as possible.

    The first row is rather unimpressive. It doesn't start looking drawn up enough until another row is added. The closer you sew the rows, the tighter it draws.

    Good luck. You may email me if you have questions.

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  33. Fantastic instructions What a great site you have got here, valuable many thanks liza

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  34. Thanks for such thoughtful step by step instructions. Excited about exploring more of your site.
    I had a similar situation as Kristianna. I wound the bobbin by hand with the elastic thread like you described, kept my machine on it's normal tension setting, used a straight stitch but the fabric did not start to gather at all while I was sewing or when I applied steam from my iron. I tried winding one bobbin loosely and a second bobbin very loosely to see if that was the problem. I even tried a variety of tension settings and stitch lengths. Any suggestions?

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  35. Did you make a 2nd row of elastic about 1/4 inch from the first? Make about 3 rows each 1/4 - 1/2 inch apart. Did you try using the broken zig zag stitch as show in the photo of my machine?

    What type of fabric are you working with? I've only used quilters weight cotton or sheer type cottons. Heavier weights may not gather as nicely. Feel free to send me an email.
    Glenna

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  36. Hi Glenna, love the easy tutorial. I'm wanting to re-create some beautiful drapes I found online, and I think the elastic thread is the answer to the poofy-gathered-puddle look they entail. If I send you a picture of the drapes, could you tell me if I'm pointed in the right direction? Thanks!

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  37. Glenna,

    Thank you for the tutorial but I am having the same problem as Krisianna and Annonymous where I have done three rows 1/4 apart - steamed on quilters weight cotton and nothing. I did a straight stitch. I will try the zig zag stitch but any other ideas?

    Thanks,

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  38. If you are having trouble with the elastic shirring not giving much stretch, I would play around with winding the elastic thread on the bobbin (by hand). Do not stretch the tread when you are winding it.

    If that doesn't do the trick, take a look at the type of fabric which you are shirring. I've only done this with quilting weight cottons or lighter.

    My machine is an old 930 Bernina. (I hope it never dies) For those using newer machines, I would love for someone to see what kinds of settings the maker suggests for this and send me an email.

    Love,
    glenna

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  39. Great tutorial -- thank so much for posting it. I made the Lily top today and your instructions were perfect. I used a straight stitch, the auto-tension on my Singer (nothing fancy) and the length and width you suggested. Worked like a charm -- did four rows of stitches on sleeves, neck and chest. I think the trick must be to get the correct tension when you wind the bobbin. I just did it like I was winding normal thread, firm but not tight.

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  40. Thanks for the tutorial! I love the pictures. :) I am having a similar problem as several of the ladies above...no stretchiness going on no mater how close together my stitches or how loosely wound my bobbin. I'll try the zig-zag stitch next and might rewind the bobbin for slightly more tension.

    I'm using an old sheet as practice...it's pretty lightweight but not flimsy.

    I'm using a Brother machine with a drop-in bobbin. Instructions for smocking that came with the machine don't include elastic thread, but rather long straight stitch + gathering and looser tension, and then stitching in between the rows before pulling out the gathering/straight stitches.

    I'll repost if I have some luck this evening!

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  41. I fixed the problem....for me anyway.
    Here's what I did:
    Since I have a drop-in bobbin, I took off the plate with the guide so I could get to the bobbin casing. Then I made sure the elastic thread went thru that little catch for the tension. (I don't know the technical terms.)
    My stitch is set to 5 and my tension is about 3.5.
    I also machine-wound the bobbin but held the spool of elastic thread. It went a lot faster and I was able to keep a consistent loose-ish but tight-enough tension.

    Hope that helps someone.

    This also helps me figure out my other bobbin tension problems...my drop-in bobbin doesn't like to guide the thread the right way. Now I can have pretty stitches all the time. :)

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  42. WOW!! A website that I can really look forward to going to. Your tutorial was just the thing I was looking for! I haven't tried it yet but will in a few days. I would like to use the elastic shirring on the bodice of a dress. May I shirr the fabric first and then cut the pattern out?or do I increase the size of the pattern,then shirr the fabric?

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  43. Monika,
    MUCH Thanks for sharing what worked for you & your machine. :-) I am sure your comment will be of a great help to others! :-)

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  44. Worked like a charm! Thank you so much for the info. I have a Bernina 630 and used stitch #16 which is the"sewn out zig zag" I set width & length for both 3.5 and I loosened the tension on the bobbin case one full turn of the screw- otherwise no matter how loose you wind the bobbin, it will be to tight trying to pull through the bobbin case (I wound the bobbin by hand) I did back stitch and tied the ends of the elastic together just in case. Then took the iron to it and watched it shrink. Awesome - no to try it on my daughter and see how much it shrunk :-)

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  45. Thanx for the tutorial. I had to replace the shirring in a dress for someone. Had tried several different approaches and was naot happy with the results. Searched online & found your site. AWESOME results. Thank you. The dress looks great.
    I put my bobbin on the winding spindle, allowed the spool to rest on the table & used my finger to rotate the bobbin. Once the bobbin was wound I followed the original stitching on the dress (I had removed the original elastic that was broken) and stitched the 26 rows I needed. Then hit it with steam & watched it "shrink". Stretches to the size I needed & looks GREAT!!!

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  46. Ahhh... Mazing! I LOve the peasant tops and have been addicted to making them for my 2yr daughter and for every friend i know who has a little girl! lol I am a little burned out on making casing for elastic though...:( Your tutorial on shirring is awesome! Just what i needed! Basically the same effect with less work! Who doesn't love that!

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  47. Loved the post it saved the day for making a leotard.

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